The Rakiura can be walked in either direction in a 10-day (red) or 3-day (blue) loop. The 3-day is the Great Walk with better tracks. This is the DOC map with accommodation listed which you need to book in advance.
We walked the track anti-clockwise starting in Lee Bay.
As we flew into Stewart Island on an 8-seater, we could see the start of the track in the small clearing below
We set off on the afternoon of Dec 30th 2019 in typical Stewart Island weather. We got a lift to the start of the track from Oban. This was an independent walk, so no catering, no hot showers, no double beds, limited washing/ drying facilities and lots of freeze dried meals!
The track dips in and out of the bush onto the beaches
The locals used the term ‘kiwi flat’ - meaning not flat at all, constantly up and down. The whole Rakiura was like this, no huge climbs but lots of undulations.
Our home for the night. We got the last 2 bunks (of 24) in different rooms. No washing facilities and 2 outside toilets.
I think this was the freeze dried venison stew with mashed potatoes. Just add water and wait!
There was also a DOC campsite behind this beach. We walked the length of this beach after dark looking for kiwi. Only as we reached the edge of the bush near the hut did we hear rustling. We stopped and saw a kiwi rooting around near our feet for 10mins - magic!
Lovely morning after a poor night’s sleep. I think we’ve been spoiled by the guided tramping experience!
The first few km are all uphill, back to the split in the path
The time markers were only approximate - we tended to cover the distance in half the time.
The majority of the track is like this; under the forest canopy surrounded by ferns and moss. Everyone said expect mud - in places it very muddy for long stretches.
These two trees in the foreground are the same species, which flummoxed early western botanists. The juvenile plant grows razorlike leaves the point down to prevent grazing by the large flightless (extinct) Moa. Once above a certain height the leaf changes completely into a soft round leaf. The long straight trunks were prized for lances.
A number of rusting old steam engines are the remnants of a log hauling industry
The paths are a credit to the DOC workers who construct the paths, steps, bridges and maintain the lodges.
On a scale of 1-10 this was about a 5.
This time being on of the first groups to arrive we selected adjacent bunks. As you can walk the loop in both directions, there’s a different mix of walkers each night. Being New Year’s Eve, locals had walked out from Oban.
Our base for New Year overlooking a sheltered cove and beach. Kiwi encounters are common here, although we were unlucky.
The hut provides sinks and water only. We had a little pack containing a fold up kettle, plates, cups and cutlery. We carried a small gas bottle and screw on stove top. Some guys had the Zipboil and were cooking far more adventurous meals than our freeze dried packets.
Tonight Menu is Thai Chicken Curry followed by Carrot Cake & custard. We carried two mini sparkling wines all the way from Queenstown.
I think we gained some kudos with the locals for this.
We lived in hope of seeing another wild kiwi and halfway back to town came across this one. It made up for being soaked.
Three days away from our comforts was plenty! Not only did we meet a couple at the sign post but the chap drove us back to town - what a gent.