The first two days cover the Greenstone, followed by a rest day. Then on day 4 we join the Routeburn with an extra group and the group we all walk the last 3 days together. We planned our trip over Christmas with day 5 (our favourite day from the Routeburn in 2007) falling on Christmas Day.
The road from Queenstown towards Glenorchy is spectacular in itself and a stop at Bennett’s Bluff is obligatory.
The DOC signs mark the route with time guides to each point along the track
Despite being a guided walk, walkers still have to carry their own packs, water and lunch. Breakfast and dinner are provided at the huts. Each day has at least one planned tea stop in a small shelter or hut.
We had a couple of shallow river crossings to make so wet feet and boots were inevitable. The huts have drying rooms for wet gear so it was only a short term discomfort.
18km later we arrive at Steele Creek Lodge
The valley floor in shadow as the sun drops behind the mountains.
Main social space with kitchen, dining and comfy seating. There were two bunk rooms; we were in the smaller of the two which slept around 8 people.
Each bridge had a weight limit, this was one person. You get a bit of a bottleneck as each person crosses. If you stand around still for too long the sand flies find you.
The Greenstone has the classic U-shape created by glacial action with steep sides and wide flat bottom. We had light rain and headwind as we made our way along the valley.
The path dipped in and out of patches of ancient twisted woodlands.
We would spend two nights here in bunk rooms of 4. There was a large drying room at the back for wet gear.
No rest for the wicked! With perfect weather we followed guides Matt & Pip up to the Lookout. Matt was in training for an army competition and filled his massive pack with potatoes.
Straight up for 45-60mins. We break the tree line.
The view back down the Greenstone Valley where we spent the past two days.
Tomorrow would take us along Lake Mckellar into Fiordland National Park. Our hut, where we spent last night & tonight, is in the tiny clearing bottom right.
You can just make out our path to the left of the river.
All the mountains are over 2000m
Matt (in red) regretting the potatoes.
The Lookout is the clearing on the middle peak in this image.
The Southern Cross and Eta Carinae Nebula just before midnight from Lake Mckellar. This was a single frame taken on a small tracking mount that follows earth’s rotation.
The Large Magellanic Cloud, a small companion galaxy to our Milky Way.
Photography is no substitute for the beauty of these forests.
Leaving our packs at a Howden, we climbed up for around 30mins to Key Summit, a spectacular alpine plateau with nature walks and magical views. Today was Christmas Eve.
Lake Marian is a classic hanging valley caused by a smaller glacier feeding into a larger one, leaving behind a small lake suspended in the mountains.
Our route today will traverse the right hand side of the mountains keeping the Hollyford on our left. We walked the Hollyford track in 2018.
Brief lunch stop here in Howden Hut by the lake. We stayed here in 2007 when we walk the Routeburn in the other direction. A few weeks after this terrible rain storms caused a huge land slip that almost wiped out the hut.
Rachel got her Christmas hat out today.
This clearing is known as The Orchard. Another brief stop here before the final push to Mackenzie.
This is the guided walker’s hut, the DOC hut is a little further towards the lake.
After three nights in shared bunk rooms, this was a welcome sight!
A significant step up from the facilities on the Greenstone.
The catered guide lodges have a fully stocked bar. They even had our favourite Pinot Noir Akarua ‘Rua’.
The double rooms and bunk room were spread out around the dining & social space. There were a few Kea around, pinching peoples boots if left outside, and running across the metal roofs. They even knocked on doors!
Harris Saddle was our first target with the hope of an offshoot up to Conical Hill.
21st Dec was our start date.
The DOC Hut and our lodge are just visible to the top right of the lake
DOC on the left, Ultimate Hikes on the right
Key Summit on the left and the Hollyford Valley on the right. On a clear day you can see all the way to Martin’s Bay where we completed the Hollyford Track in 2018, leaving by helicopter.
Views back to a Key Summit. Bottom right is a small settlement Gunn’s Camp, the final stop on the way to the start of the Hollyford Track.
Again, one for independent DOC walkers and one for guided groups. We had a flush toilet, they had the long drop.
Light rain as we reached the shelter for lunch. Our route continued to the left. About 10 of us decided to head up to Conical Hill.
We got occasional gaps in the cloud, looking down to the valley below. We did catch a glimpse of the ocean at Martin’s Bay.
Rose helped us recreate the photo from 2007 that hangs on our dining room wall.
This is a proper ‘Middle Earth’ photo
Having climbed Conical Hill, we were some of the last to set off. All downhill, with no time pressure, this was a magical time to stop and enjoy the scenery.
DOC hut - we didn’t stay here, just a pit stop
Yes, it was freezing
One of the many adventure trips run out of Queenstown
For those who come for the day, this loop of nature walk is accessible from the road end.